Mali is one of the poorest countries in the world. Its people is famous for their generous hospitality and their love for music and soccer. Mali has been under conflict for more than a year, after an ethnic Tuareg uprising in the north caused a soldier rebellion in the south that overthrew the government. The Tuareg rebels supported by a coalition of jihadist fighters took the North of the country, terrorizing with a sharia law the moderate people of Mali and almost splitting the country in two, causing a humanitarian catastrophe, with massive displacements and refugees fleeing to nearby countries and to the capital, Bamako, in the south. In January, a French-led intervention liberated the north of the country. 7/28/13 marked the elections to re-established some democratic order.

Thursday, May 30, 2013

I had a crash course on “AIDS in Africa”

This is a screen-shot of our video interview with Ali


The young Ali is desperate. He is 15 years old and HIV positive. He takes, twice a day, his anti-retroviral medication and feels fairly strong. Still, he believes there is no future ahead for him. He says:  “Who is going to want to marry him one day, or have kids with him, if he’s HIV positive?”

His doctor, Dr. Anta Koita called him yesterday to her clinic in Bamako. Dr. Koita wanted Ali to meet another patient of hers, a beautiful teenager, Fatima and her baby girl. Fatima is also HIV positive, but thanks to the treatments she was able to have an HIV negative baby. She even was able to breast feed her for 8 months without transmitting the virus to the newborn.
When we entered the room the three of them were having an animated, frank discussion, while Fatima’s baby laid on the floor behind a desk, taking a nap.




Only ten years ago, HIV would have been a sure death sentence for Ali, Fatima, her baby daughter and most people infected in Mali, and the rest of Africa, for that matter. It was not until 2004 that thanks to coordinated international intervention, that anti-retroviral treatments became more available in Africa.

Ali was reminded by her doctor of the great progress that has been made in the science of AIDS and the local delivery of treatments.
Still, Ali has additional questions. All of them posed in Bambara, the local language that is most commonly used in the south of Mali. (French is the official language of Mali, but not everybody has had the same level of access to education in French).

Ali’s questions were good and difficult: “Am I going to have to take two pills every day for the rest of my life? Why do I have to take my pill twice a day when people in Europe and the United States have drugs that are taken only once a day? Why are we not getting the same treatment? Are they keeping their good drugs and sending down to us the bad ones?”

AIDS may not be the plague that used to be, but being infected with HIV continues to be disproportionally dangerous for people in Africa. The continent of Africa accounts only for approximately 15% of the population of the world, but Sub-Saharan Africa alone accounted for 69 percent of all people living with HIV and 70 percent of all AIDS deaths in 2011.

In developing nations, patients have access to routine tests that allows doctors to monitor the viral load on a patient, assuring that HIV positive people are being properly treated and that the medication is taking effect.  As Dr. Robert Murphy, from the International AIDS Education Project and faculty member at Northwestern University explained: “Treating HIV patients, without monitoring their viral load, is like driving a car blindfolded.”

On top of this, patients in Africa suffer more commonly the dangers of many infectious diseases, mainly TB, the most common opportunistic infection affecting HIV patients and the leading cause of death among people with HIV. International programs to fight HIV and to fight TB are often isolated from each other, making it very difficult for patients to receive preventive treatments and proper monitoring.

So some of those tough questions from Ali may not be, at all, out of place. Coming here and learning first hand from HIV doctors and patients is definitively opening my eyes… more questions to come.
(Ali and Fatima are fictitious nicknames for the patients)



Wednesday, May 29, 2013

A country recovers

Today, I learned why the inhabitants of this corner of the world (known today as Mali) have been enchanting visitors for centuries. Their beauty, in and out, is spectacular... that generous smile that is both in their mouth, and in their almond shaped eyes. Just the way they walk, that forceful grace, makes you understand why they’re so well known for their music, their dancing and for being incredible soccer players. Women all over town, in their colorful regalia, negotiate the traffic carrying their babies on their backs and enormous, heavy baskets on their heads… all with such apparent ease that leaves westerners speechless.




As  happened to me many years ago, in the 90’s, visiting war-torn Colombia, I feel even a more acute sense of injustice, when I see such peaceful, kind people being terrorized by a violent few. Nobody deserves a situation like this, but I can’t help thinking that Malians deserve it even less.

Bamako, the capital in the south of the country, is fighting to get back to normal. The conflict did not affect the south as much as the north. Before the invasion of a rebel partnership between the Tuaregs and Al-Qaïda, that forced the intervention of French troops, there was also a coup d'État here in the capital… so the peaceful Bamako is still recovering from a year and a half of instability: welcoming refugees from the north and living constant changes in government, all under the constant fear of extremist violence and the influx of international troops and workers from NGOs.





People in the streets are trying to get  back to their business. Restaurants are now open, but they're empty. Many people in Mali depend on the money from a tourist industry that is, for now, gone.

To enter our hotel, we must cross a checkpoint, where the military inspects beneath every car, in search of bombs. 
Before entering the front lobby, one must pass a security checkpoint as thorough as those in any airport.

When I get into my room: a surreal surprise. On my bed there are three German military uniforms, perfectly pressed. The laundry service was delivered tonight to the wrong room. Just another reminder, Toto, that we are not in Kansas anymore.


Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Saturday, May 25, 2013

Wall Street Journal: Militants, Chased From Mali, Pose New Threats

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887323336104578503464066163002.html?mod=itp


Militants, Chased From Mali, Pose New Threats
Attacks in Niger Show Islamist Fighters' Migration; Vast Deserts of Southern Libya Draw Concerns From U.S., Neighbors

Four months after French troops cleared Islamist fighters from the desert towns of northern Mali, U.S., French and African governments see a worrying new trend: Many of the same militants are regrouping in neighboring countries.
One new trouble spot, say officials from the U.S., France and Niger, is an expanse in southwest Libya that is roughly 1,000 miles from Mali, beyond the reach of French warplanes and in area that before now drew little U.S. notice.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Mali is a country in West Africa devastated by a conflict instigated by Al-Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb, and similar rebel groups who wanted to impose a strict Sharia law in this country of peaceful people and incredible musicians, dancers and soccer players.

This is the beginning of a new emotional and intellectual adventure for us. 

This article from the Guardian, in the UK, will give you an idea of why we think, there is a great story to tell from Mali.


Or this Op Ed in the New York Times, about how fundamentalist tried to make music illegal in this country of musicians.
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/20/opinion/the-day-the-music-died-in-mali.html?smid=tw-share&_r=0



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